In the world of cosmetics, many brands tell stories about natural ingredients, botanical blends or exotic extracts. Ethne, however, was created in an entirely different space — where cosmetology meets real science. Our peptide-based serum is built on the combined expertise of two institutions that set global benchmarks in their fields: Sederma, the world’s leader in cosmetic peptide technology, and the Institute of Biochemistry and Biophysics of the Polish Academy of Sciences, one of the most advanced analytical laboratories in Poland.
This synergy — French biotechnology and Polish scientific precision — is the foundation of Ethne.
Sederma: the creators of the modern era of cosmetic peptides
The story of peptides in cosmetology begins in 1993, when Sederma introduced the first fully characterized cosmetic peptides. From that moment, the anti-aging industry changed forever.
Key milestones:
- 1993 – the first peptides with defined sequences enter the cosmetic market, marking the beginning of a new generation of active ingredients.
- 2000 – the launch of Matrixyl®, now a global benchmark in collagen-boosting anti-aging formulations.
- 2000–2010 – the development of palmitoylated peptides (pentapeptide-3, oligopeptide), Replikines™ and Combikines™ — molecules designed for even stronger and broader cell-signaling effects.
- Last decade – the emergence of new generations such as Crystalide™, inspired by the “glass skin” concept, and advancements in biomimetic and biotechnology-driven actives.
Today, Sederma peptides are used in hundreds of formulations worldwide and account for 60–80% of all peptide-based cosmetic implementations — a clear definition of an industry leader.
From this tradition and expertise came Silverfree™ (Palmitoyl-Prolyl-Proline) — a biomimetic peptide that influences the greying process at its core: the melanocytes.
Same mechanism, new field: peptides and hair greying
Peptides have long been used in skincare because they:
- stimulate collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid production,
- work through cell signaling rather than mechanical stimulation,
- deliver long-term biological improvement instead of temporary smoothing.
The same scientific logic was translated to hair biology.
Silverfree™ is a biomimetic peptide with efficacy confirmed through:
- in vitro studies,
- ex vivo studies on melanocytes,
- four clinical trials involving 84 volunteers.
The effect:
Over 80% efficacy has been confirmed using objective instrumental methods such as digital image analysis, TrichoScan™ and Headscan® — technologies that quantify hair density, pigmentation and the percentage of grey hair. These results are based on hard numerical data, not on participant self-assessment.
Crucially, Silverfree™ acts biologically — by:
- reducing oxidative stress,
- supporting pigmentation enzymes,
- protecting melanocytes from apoptotic death.
This technology was developed by Sederma — but to use it meaningfully, one more step is crucial: confirming that the peptide is truly present, stable and structurally intact in the final cosmetic formula.
This is where the Polish Academy of Sciences comes in.
IBB PAN: confirming the presence and stability of the peptide
We collaborate with the Drug and Metabolite Analysis Laboratory
of the Environmental Mass Spectrometry Facility
at the Institute of Biochemistry and Biophysics, Polish Academy of Sciences — one of the most advanced analytical facilities in Poland.
This laboratory routinely analyzes:
- pharmaceuticals,
- metabolites,
- biomedical peptides,
- compounds detectable at nanogram levels.
Why does this matter?
Because verifying the presence of a specific peptide in a finished cosmetic is one of the most challenging tasks in analytical chemistry. It requires:
- LC-MS/MS mass spectrometry,
- identification of molecular mass and fragment ions,
- isolating the peptide from dozens of ingredients in the formula,
- assessing structural integrity and stability over time.
This is the standard of pharmaceutical analysis, not typical cosmetic testing.
That’s why we can say with full confidence:
- yes — Silverfree™ is genuinely present in our serum,
- yes — the peptide remains structurally intact,
- yes — its quantity has been analytically confirmed.
This level of transparency and verification is rarely seen in the cosmetic industry in Poland — or internationally.
Two ends of the scientific chain, one result
The Ethne scientific chain looks like this:
1. Beginning — Sederma
A global leader with 30 years of research behind the most advanced cosmetic peptides.
2. End — Polish Academy of Sciences
A pharmaceutical-grade laboratory confirming the peptide’s presence and stability in the final serum.
Between these two points lies a technology that truly works — not at a marketing level, but at a biological one.
Conclusion
Ethne was created at the intersection of French biotechnological innovation and Polish scientific rigor.
That is why we can offer a product that:
- acts through a proven biological mechanism,
- contains a peptide whose presence is analytically verified,
- has undergone methods typically reserved for pharmaceutical testing.
This is science, not narrative — and this is why we trust our serum.